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Bachmann OO 3F Jinty DCC Sound

Example 1: Zimo MX648R 8pin; SugarCurve7 speaker

Bachmann OO 3F Jinty 0-6-0 Tank... one of my favourite models, and one of the first I ever owned myself.

This remarkable DCC-ready model can take a Zimo MX648 8pin decoder and slightly reduced-height SugarCube speaker (or easier, a SugarCurve7) as a direct plug-in installation! Just about squeezes decoder and speaker one above the other in the boiler.

This particular example also sports a firebox glow light (SMD orange recessed in the cab) and crew.

Example 2: MX648, YouChoos SugarStrand7 speaker, SACC16 with SuperCap17000

So we wanted a challenge... full-bodied sound and the biggest possible stay-alive in a Jinty! Turned out to be more straight-forward than we expected...

SuperCap17000 on the cab floor, with MX648, YouChoos SugarStrand7 speaker (new type being experimented with - great results!) with stay-alive through a SACC16 baord. Decoder, speaker and SACC16 just about squeeze in the boiler. Just for good measure, we also put a firebox glow light in too!

Brilliant results - loud and full sound, and about 5 seconds of backup power!

Example 3: MX658N18; Stay-Alive

Kit: MX658N18; StickyGasket speaker 15x11mm; LifeLink with 2x 470uF Flat Tantalums

Bachmann's most recent model of the 3F Jinty provides a Next18 DCC socket instead, which makes installation of DCC Sound much easier. They also provide a custom plastic enclosure for a speaker, to which you simply need to stick a 15x11mm StickyGasket speaker onto.

Underneath the model's PCB you'll spot a couple of copper pads designed for a SugarCube speaker's spring clips to press against - you don't even have to solder anything to get DCC Sound!

Also on the underside of the PCB we discover solder pads for a stay-alive connection. We've added BLUE (POSITIVE) and GREY (GROUND) wires in preparation for this.

Our StickyGasket speaker simply sticks to the plastic moulded enclosure provided with the model.

Oriented the correct way around to make contact with the PCB pads, the speaker simply sits underneath and gains contact as we screw the PCB back down. A little BlackTack is useful underneath to help press it up to the PCB.

The PCB back in place here, and our stay-alive wires flying out the back, we check that sound and motion work OK before we add the stay-alive.

A YouChoos LifeLink stay-alive connection PCB is used, with a pair of 470uF Flat Tantalums. Covered in Kapton tape, and positioned on top of the decoder, that's all there is to it.

The pair of Tantalums is actually too long to fit in the boiler, so we have to angle the 2nd Tantalum downward at the boiler door. Luckily, the door removes easily.


Please note that these guides are provided as useful resources for you, as-is. YouChoos cannot be held responsible for errors in the information, or for any damage caused to your models or equipment if you choose to follow any of the steps detailed here.

A bit of YouChoos poster art for your enjoyment!