Example 1: Simple DCC conversion

Kit: MX616 (wires)

We just love this little Terrier, especially in SECR lined green, but it is not DCC-ready and with the very limited space (in the cab), we choose the tiny Zimo MX616 decoder.

The body unclips by gently pressing the retaining clips underneath with a tiny flat-head scewdriver. Great care required doing this, but once released, the chassis drops away quite easily. A small PCB has a couple of resisters on board, which reduce the power to the motor (unusually this appears to be a 9V motor, rather than the normal 12V type used in other models). This noted, as we'll have to ensure that we reduce the top speed via decoder control later to avoid burning the little motor out.

The PCB is removed so the decoder will be hard-wired directly, with shortened wires.

Our MX616 decoder has had its' protective sleeve removed, unwanted lighting wires unsoldered, and re-covered in Kapton tape to keep its' overall size as small as possible.

All done, with the decoder sitting in the cab.

Photos and notes above courtsey of Barrie Haigh.

Example 2: MX616 with stay-alive (LifeLink and 470uF Flat/Wide Tantalum)

Our initial attempt uses a tall/narrow 470uF Tantalum with our LifeLink stay-alive connection PCB, connected to the common positive and ground of the MX616 decoder.

However, we just cannot get this to go in and the body clip on, so we change Tantalums for the flat/wide 470uF version instead.

It is still very very tight, but we eventually slot it in, using some of the open space above the weight at the back of the cab.

Please note that these guides are provided as useful resources for you, as-is. YouChoos cannot be held responsible for errors in the information, or for any damage caused to your models or equipment if you choose to follow any of the steps detailed here.