Kit: MX648 with Minnow4
Hornby's 2019 re-release of their Terrier model is a good improvement over the old Terrier, which was very difficult to do
anything much with. They have provided more space under the chimney, and a 6pin DCC socket. A simple job to plug in a small
6pin decoder, like the Zimo MX616N, but we want DCC Sound, so some effort is required...
Here's the model before we start... a quick run on DC shows that it runs pretty reliably, so good job to Hornby for that!
Open it up to reveal the 6pin DCC socket up front. Below is shown the Zimo MX648 sound decoder with heat shrink removed.
A quick measure up suggests that the MX648 is just about the perfect fit for the space - another mm in either direction and it
We need to create as much space as possible, as the speaker will have to fit in this cavity too. We remove the 6pin socket, and
cut back the plastic mount almost to the screw - the screw is required to keep the motor housing in place.
Unsolder the wires completely, and we re-wire the decoder with thinner decoder wire (ESU type). Join up the motor and pickups
and test for direction now. We rather abitiously connect up a SugarCurve6 speaker, but it soon becomes clear that this is just
a bit too hopeful, so revert to a Minnow4, which still sounds quite respectable.
Remove the SugarCurve and wire in the Minnow4 instead, keeping everything as neat and tidy as possible, and using Kapton tape
to protect the decoder.
Body should go on comfortably - mustn't force anything. Once on, give a test, and time for a photo-shoot... nice!
Here's another example, this time with working front lamp fitted by a customer... (photos courtesy of Rod Weekes)
Kit: MX648; Minnow4l LifeLink + 3x 330uF Tall/Narrow Tantalums
Pushing the limits a little here, and some modification to the chassis required, but relatively minor, it is then possible to
add a small stay-alive to the Hornby Terrier, in the form of our LifeLink PCB with 3x Tall/Narrow Tantalums capacitors.
The trick is to lower the side walls of the chassis down to flat, so the stay-alive kit can sit on top of these ledges. We'll
put the LifeLink and 1x of the Tantalums on one side, then add 2 more Tantalums on the opposite side.
Here is the kit wired up...
Put electrical tape on the ledges so that the components don't short-circuit the chassis.
Below you can see the positions intended for the kit.